lumpy mascara. It’s something you’ve probably been trying to avoid for much of your life – Max Factor even has a mascara called Clump Defy designed to do just that – but this season deliberately spidery, stuck-together lashes are having a moment. And, like all trickier beauty trends, there’s a knack to it: think Twiggy and Diana Ross, not early Noughties football WAGs. It’s a fine line, and one frequently crossed. Two autumn/winter 2016 shows that mastered the technique were Jason Wu and Christian Dior, where Yadim and Peter Philips respectively created looks that managed to get the balance just right.
“Instead of applying mascara in the way we’re used to – root to tip – I dragged the wand along the tips of the lashes, going side to side and not necessarily coating each lash entirely,” Yadim told us. “What this did was help to clump or stick the lashes together to create what looked like just five or six extra-thick, long, almost animated-looking lashes.”
Yadim used the aptly-named Maybelline Volum’ Express Colossal Spider Effect Mascara at the Jason Wu show because of its rich formula and “advanced liquid latex formula”, before finishing with a touch of Maybelline Lip Studio Shine Shot Lip Topcoat for extra drama. “This made the lashes look even more like liquid latex – almost vinyl-like. The gloss added a hyper-real texture to the look that Jason just loved,” he explained. “I wouldn’t necessarily recommend adding gloss for everyday life because it would require regular touch-ups, but in general I would say go bold and don’t be afraid of making a mess! You can always clean up afterwards.”
But once you’ve perfected your lashes, what make-up (and indeed hair) to wear with them? For night, the Dior look by Peter Philips offered double the drama by pairing spidery lashes with near-black plum lipstick – Rouge Dior in Poison with Dior Contour lip liner. Skin was perfected whilst the clumpy lash look was created by curling the lashes, applying a coat of Diorshow Maximizer 3D primer and then layering coats of Dior Overcurl Mascara in Over Black. “I wanted to emphasize the impression of texture on the lashes,” he said. Finish with Manga-style twin buns, and you’re ready to go.
At Jason Wu the look had a street sensibility, with only lip balm on the lips and a subtle matt eyeshadow to let the lashes do the talking.
“I think its’s appealing because it’s actually wearable. Sometimes on the runway we create looks that are somewhat editorial or avant-garde, but this look is so clean and fresh it can be worn on the street, to work or even a night on the town,” Yadim said. “Its appealing because it’s accessible yet bold, and daring without being over the top.”
Just be prepared to get through your new tube of mascara a little more quickly than usual.